Start with a daily driven car.

I can’t stress this enough. If you start modifying a worn-down, tired old car that’s not completely reliable, you’ll definitely regret it. As long as all the major systems are in good working order, you don’t have much to worry about. If your engine, suspension, or electronics have been flaky, sort them out first. If you can’t drive it every day now, your modifications will only exacerbate your existing issues.

Establish a plan and a budget.

With a car project, no matter how large or small, you need to have a clear idea of where you’re going before you fire it up. I’ve put together budgeting tips previously, but the basic idea is to break down your plan into stages, and keep each stage drivable.

Power isn’t everything.

Especially with a daily driver, increasing peak power output is hardly ever the best way to spend your money. Instead, focus on upgrades which make your car more responsive like tires, improved shocks, and more responsive street brake pads.

Power is something, though.

A lot of tuners try to produce more power, when they should be focused on producing better power. For a daily driver, improving torque output and widening the power band should be your top priorities. Trying to make massive amounts of power often leads to peaky power that is difficult to apply on the street, adds considerable strain to the drivetrain, and requires more rigorous maintenance.

Simply retuning the ECU can improve your power curve considerably, without spending any money on new hardware. A more accurate fuel map and ignition map have the potential to make your car much more exciting to drive.

Bolt-on upgrades (such as an air intake, exhaust headers, and a cat-back exhaust) will make the engine sound more aggressive, but do not make a big power difference on most engines by themselves. After re-tuning the ECU, the difference they make will be much more noticeable, both on the dyno and on the road.

Weight where it matters

Most people think I’m silly for preferring a gutted interior to a lush, fully-carpeted floor in my cars. I admit that tearing out all the creature comforts is an extreme way to lighten a car, and that there are more important components to upgrade first. Lighter brake rotors, wheels, and tires will decrease overall rotational mass and improve acceleration, braking, and handling considerably without adversely affecting your car’s comfort level.

Removing excess rotating mass from the engine will put less strain on the engine, and free up more power to be directed to the wheels. This only really applies to older cars, since components have become much more efficient in modern cars. Old engines used crank-driven cooling fans and belt-driven air pumps, mechanical fuel pumps, air conditioning pumps, and power steering pumps. Utilizing electronic cooling fans and underdriving or removing belt-driven accessories frees up power that will go directly to your wheels.

Further Reading

A few weeks ago, I came across an excellent article with some awesome advice, if you’re still looking for more quality information:

A beginner’s guide to car modification

Jadkar (John, to some of us) is one of my automotive heroes.  Too few CRX’s receive the love and attention the cars rightfully deserve, and most die deaths of malnutrition and abuse.  He owned a CRX from brand new all the way up to present, and has completely restored and updated it, revitalizing everything from the engine (a supercharged b18c5) to the suspension (powder coating every suspension component) and brakes (with a big brake kit and stainless steel lines) to make the ultimate daily driven CRX.  He also founded tuner-junction, a well-rounded automotive forum that sees light, but high-quality traffic.  Here’s some eye candy of his perfect example of a CRX, but if you’re looking for a bit more check out his CRX gallery.

Driven Daily: What first inspired you to buy a CRX, and how did you get it?
Jadkar:

I always admired Hondas. As a young boy about 6 years of age my Mother’s boyfriend had a early Accord (maybe 83) and I loved the car and til’ this day I don’t know why.  When I was 14 I bought a used 1981 Civic 1300 4spd.  The car was “cute” and that’s about it.  It was slow as hell and I knew from reading that Honda’s CRX was much more what I wanted, still a small hatch but with a hotter engine and much better handling.  When I was alabout 16 I secured a loan with the help of my parents and bought a 1986 red CRX Si.

Driven Daily: How long have you been working on this project?
Jadkar:

I bought my current CRX new when I was a senior in High School and I drove the car until 1996 when I took it off the road and stored it.  I started the rebuild when I took the car out of storage in 2005 and I have been working on it ever since.  You know these things never have an end date, you just get started and keep going.

Driven Daily: If you had to guess, how much of an investment (time and money) have you put into it?
Jadkar:

Well, I bought the car in 1991 for $10,500 and over the years including this past major rebuild I would say I’m a tad over 40K in mods

Driven Daily: If you had to pick, what would you say is your favorite part about your car?
Jadkar:

When the car was stock I liked the styling the best, it was much more ahead of it’s time then anything on the road.  Now that time has elapsed and the rebuild has progressed to what it is I would have to say the drivetrain is my favorite.

Driven Daily: Did you set out with a goal in mind, or just build the car as the pieces came together?

I had a very specific goal.  The whp rose slightly as I was not overly impressed with the na ITR swap but other than that I planned everything out pretty precisely (I had about ten years to do so)

Driven Daily: What would you say the major differences between the US and UK tuning scenes?
Jadkar:

I couldn’t tell you, I don’t follow the tuning scenes very closely.  I have two kids and a hectic schedule, I race in the summer and that’s about as much of the scene that I get and even that isn’t a good judge.  I hang out with hard core track rats not really “tuners” in the sense that you’re refering to.

Driven Daily: You’ve done a few projects in the same chassis.  How many different driveable versions has your CRX seen?
Jadkar:

I would say 4

Driven Daily: If you could change any one thing about the CRX, what would it be?
Jadkar:

I would make it AWD.  The car has way too much power and the front wheels can’t handle it.

Driven Daily: Do you see the upcoming CR-Z as a reinvention of the CRX?
Jadkar:

To an extent yes.  However, Honda needs to get their act together and listen to what the people want.  Many enthusiasts have been screaming for a CRX replacement for a long time and they haven’t been listening.  Just as we have been wanting a RL with a V8 and a real NSX replacement.  Unfortunately, Honda has been making “appliances” for automobiles lately and I’m afraid they will call the new car the CRX replacement but it will be a hybrid or toned down econo-commuter box.

Driven Daily: What are your future plans for this car?
Jadkar:

Keep the fuel system in check and stop it from melting pistons   Actually, nothing.  I need to do some guage work and maybe some rollers but other than that I’m done.  The upkeep from racing every year keeps me busy enough.

Driven Daily: You’ve been tuning other peoples’ cars and powder-coating parts for others for awhile now.  Do you have any plans to go into business doing this?
Jadkar:

Nah, maybe later but not now.  I had my NJ dealer license for a while and I sold it because my full-time job was too time consuming.  I do much much better with my regular job than to try and jeopordize it with the auto stuff.  Later in life when my time gets a little more flexible maybe I will re-visit the auto business.

Driven Daily: What would you consider to be the most important modification a new CRX owner could perform?
Jadkar:

It really depends on what you do with the car.  I think the CRX had two major weaknesses, the engine was not strong enough and the brakes are totally incapable at high speeds.  If you are getting into road racing (legally) I would say learn to drive the car and upgrade the brakes as it will really help.  Plus the temptation to add more whp will get you into trouble if you don’t get some larger binders.  If you’re running 1/4 mile and you’re not too afraid of stopping than go engine.  Use your head though, I’m sure with that big engine you WILL be driving on the road and trust me you WILL NOT stop well.  Good brakes on our car are relativly inexpessive when compared to the engine upgrades so I would say do the brakes first.

It’s no secret that the first-gen suspension is mushy and leaves much to be desired. The aftermarket suspension for the 84-87 CRX leaves much to be desired as well, so you may think your options end there.

You’d be dead wrong! You simply need to get a little creative with a hybrid setup. First-gen Integra parts are still commonplace as well as third-gen Civic parts.  The second-gen CRX stole the first-gen’s fire, so to speak.

A full rear end can be used from the Integra, which gives the added bonus of rear disks (unless you race heavily, the only difference you’ll notice is the ease of maintenance). The front end of the first-generation CRX is respectable, but the rear really needs lots of suspension love. Focus on stiffening the rear with a strut bar and upgraded sway bar, and if your budget allows, move on to springs and struts.

If possible, search for a full set of matched coilovers or a kit that includes struts. Remember to drive safely, and keep speed on the track.

It’s the most common caveat long-term CRX owners share: we got no love in the cupholder department. If I adjust my passenger’s seat just right, and the stars are aligned, and I never hit a bump, I can keep my Aroma Joe’s coffee cups between the ebrake handle and the seat. That doesn’t quite cut it. Another solution that doesn’t quite cut it is the armrest that came in JDM and EDM EG civics. They’re too expensive and there just aren’t enough to go around for all of us.  All sorts of other terrible attempts to screw, rubber band, or hang cupholders in a crx have cropped up, but none really fit the bill if you ask me.  Three cheap, stock-ish alternatives have cropped up that I have been able to find.

Option 1: Nissan Sentra cupholder

OZ wrote up a nice DIY on using a Sentra cupholder, but this requires cutting into your console.  It’s a moderate amount of work and can’t be undone if you decide you don’t like it or want to resell the car.  Generally speaking, custom irreversible changes aren’t worth doing if there are other options available to you.  Read on.

Option 2: Taurus SHO Cupholder/Coinholder

The Taurus SHO cupholder fits into a DIN slot, so if you don’t mind moving your stereo head somewhere else, you can fit this beastie in there for around $10. If you’re skilled with fabrication, you can cut your own DIN-sized hole and line up the bolts yourself. Also, heater controls use a DIN space, so if you don’t mind leaving your climate just the way it is you can replace that with this cupholder. Here’s how the SHO cupholder fits into a CRX dash:

Option 3: Acura Integra cupholder

Lastly, the 94+ Integra cupholder fits toward the bottom of your center console. This is a clean replacement for the cigarette lighter and ashtray, stays tasteful, and is common/cheap enough for me to recommend.

I’ve ordered one of these to replace my current Taurus SHO cupholder, it fit pretty well.  You need to be aware of where your fingers are when shifting into third, though. For further research, check out honda-tech’s forum thread here. If you have any alternative ideas for cupholders in your CRX, leave a comment below!  If you’ve already installed one, send in an email with some pictures  and I’ll feature your car.

I see a lot of questions about LS/VTEC and Minime floating around right now, and it seems like a lot of people are confused. There is no “LS/VTEC” engine, or a ”Minime” engine. Both are essentially the same, a non-vtec block with a vtec head.

LS/VTEC
The LS/VTEC gets its name from the Acura Integra “LS” block (b18a1 or b18b, from any non-GSR and non-type-r Integra) and any b-series VTEC head. Most of the time, a b16 head is used on either b18 LS block because of its flow and excellent documentation.

There are a few reasons LS/VTEC rocks, but most importantly it’s the stroke ratio, which nets awesome torque (for a Honda) which equates to awesome power. LS/VTEC builds can put out even more power than ITR (Integra Type R) engines do, because the crank creates a longer stroke and produces more power.

However, that stroke comes at a cost. Because the stroke is longer (meaning the piston travels farther vertically in one rotation), more pressure is put on the block sleeves. It theoretically cuts down on the longevity of the engine. There are plenty of people out there who have had no problems for umpteen miles on an LS/VTEC build, but they’re the lucky ones. The same motor with a more ideal rod to stroke ratio (such as the near-perfect 1.74:1 of the b16a1) would last longer than an LS/VTEC. Unfortunately, a 1.8l Honda motor with such a rod to stroke ratio does not yet exist… Read on.

MINIMe
Minime engines are basically the cheap way to make more power than stock. You take your existing 1991 CRX Si (which you already updated your car to if you haven’t already), remove the head, and insert a vtec d-series head onto it. Some applications may get as much as 30hp gains, and because d-series motors are so common this could be a free upgrade. The next time you’re at a salvage yard, check to see if they have a d16z6 or d16y8 head in-stock, and how much it would cost for that and the ECU. You’ll only have to add a way to activate the new vtec you’ve installed.

CR-VTEC
This one has kind of a special place in my heart. The CRV comes with a big girthy 2.0liter B20Z block, and throwing a b16/b18c* head on there and voila! There’s a CR-VTEC motor.

Now, back to the rod-stroke ratio, a de-stroked B20Z could certainly be engineered to be damned close to the ideal 1.75:1 rod-stroke ratio. THAT, my friends, is what I want out of a Honda. Vtec or not, that would be the nasty-scary-k20-killer that everybody has been dreaming of. You just didn’t know that’s what was under the hood in your dreams.

VTEC
Personally, I say that vtec is a waste of time. It has no performance application that aggressive cams hadn’t already solved, and is more expensive than it’s really worth from a daily driver perspective. I’m also a big fan of simplicity, and a strong non-vtec build is what I consider to be ideal. A nice cam job and a tune can breathe new life into a car that’s starting to feel less exciting.

For further reading, see:
LS/VTEC

Photo courtesy of Wiros

If you’re still asking yourself why to upgrade your brakes, you can roll right on past this article.   I upgraded mine simply because I had the brakes lying around and needed to change out my rotors.   The upgrade cost me less than fixing the stock brakes.  The rear CRX Si disk brakes from 90–91 are the exact same as the Integra brakes, so you can leave them be unless you’re doing a rear-disk conversion anyway.   That’s beyond the scope of this article, so we’ll get down to the nitty-gritty on swapping the front brake system.   This article is pretty long, though, so sit back with some coffee, a Monster Khaos, or a Guinness and enjoy the ride.

Disclaimer

This particular writeup does change your front camber, but if your car is lowered, it reigns it in to be closer to zero degrees.   Undertake this at your own risk, I accept no responsibility for any stupidity that ensues because of following anything that is recommended, including (but not limited to) pinched fingers and cuts and scrapes from sharp bolts, all the way up to more severe injuries like bruised egos.  Proceed at your own risk and always put safety first!

OPTIONAL supplies:

• Stainless braided or kevlar brake lines (increase braking response)
• 90–93 Integra Master Cylinder (this increases the brake response, but ends up feeling too twitchy for my tastes.)
• Loud angry music
• Camera to take pictures of your handiwork

Step 1: Prep Work

Safety First!

Once you have your parts assembled, you’ll have to remove your old calipers, rotors, and knuckles to fit the new ones on. Break the 8 lug nuts on both front wheels (use a tire iron to loosen them a few degrees, so they aren’t stuck when you get the car jacked up).   Jack the front end of the car up, and use at least two jackstands under the subframe to hold it up (the subframe is under the engine).

Once you’re up on jack stands, push the car around a bit.   Kick the tires, push on the fenders and the bumper, be 100% confident that it’s not going to slip and fall off of them.   You’re going to be wrenching pretty hard under there and don’t want to get hurt.   Put the jack up underneath the center of the subframe (you’re going to spend most of your time underneath the suspension) and jack it all the way up, just in case one of the jack stands does slip.

Wheel removal

Now you can finally remove one wheel.   Again, in the interest of safety and planning for the worst, only one wheel should be off at once when you’re up on jackstands.  If a jackstand does slip, that’ll at least hold the car up on one side.   On the side you remove the tire on, slide the tire on its side under the rocker panels (where the door is) so in a worst-case scenario the full weight isn’t coming down on you.

Rotor removal

First we’ll take off the rotor.  You’ll need some strong string handy to tie the caliper up, or something tall to place it on.   There’s no reason to destroy your lines or old calipers when you can keep them in good condition and sell them or save them as seconds. Do this by removing the two retaining bolts on the inside (toward the middle of the car) of the caliper. If my memory serves me correctly, they are both 14mm, one toward the top of the caliper, the other toward the bottom. Once it’s off, it should slide off the rotor cleanly. If not, tap it lightly with a hammer, pushing it away from the rotor. Toss your old pads which are still inside the calipers, they’re rarely worth keeping.

Knuckle removal

Next, you’ll have to remove the axle nut from the side you’re working on.   It should be a 32mm brass nut in the center of the rotor.   As long as it was installed correctly, there will be a notch in it to keep it from wriggling loose.   You’ll want to take a flat-head screwdriver and pry that notch back out so it’s out of the way.   Remove the nut altogether and you may be able to pull the axle out of the knuckle altogether.  That’s bad, so please don’t.   We’ll get to why in a few paragraphs.

Once the axle nut is off, you’ll want to pull the knuckle, starting with the wishbone. Jadkar wrote up a GREAT howto on how to remove the LCA nut. Remove the tie-rod castle nut connecting the tie-rod to the knuckle (if anybody has a picture of this I can use, please let me know!) and the upper control arm bolt. After this, the knuckle should slide out nicely (if the tie rod gets stuck in the knuckle, wedge something between them, do not hammer on the tie rod).

Axle removal

When removing your axles, take care to push rather than pull. Let me explain a little better. Think of your axles as being like a pair of arms. If you were to rip someone else’s arms off at the shoulder, if you were to grab them by the fingertips and yank as hard as you could, you’d probably pull off some fingers or rip apart their elbow. Instead, you should grab nice and close to the shoulder and yank from there. That way it all comes off at once and you don’t break anything important. Push from the center of the car, never pull from the outside of the car. Your axles should slide out nicely. Check the rubber boots for tears while you have them exposed, and if they’re ripped I suggest replacing the entire axle.

Brake Line removal

If you’re taking my advice whole-heartedly like this article expects, you’re also upgrading to stainless steel lines.  To remove your brake lines, it’s a simple process of removing the banjo bolt on the caliper, and another on the top of the fender wall (Have a container handy for the fluid that comes out, and try not to get too much fluid on you: it’s corrosive and will eat your arm as happily as it eats your car’s paint).   The old line should come out easily, and after you clean out the fender wall a bit, you’re good to start installing components!

Step 2: Installation

After you finally have the side you’re working on disassembled (one side at a time, remember), you’re ready to start re-assembly. For the most part, reassembly is the same as disassembly, except that you’re using Integra knuckles, rotors, and calipers, and you’re swapping in your shiny new stainless steel brake lines (for better brake response and less maintenance required). Be sure to bleed your lines when you’re finished with reassembly, and make sure the lug nuts are torqued down nicely. If I’ve left anything out or you’d like to submit some pictures, please leave a comment below.